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Heating and cooling for Bellingham houses

Repairs, replacements, heat pumps and ventilation — in houses from the 1900s to last year.

Heating

Whatever is in the basement

Oil furnaces and boilers, gas furnaces, electric forced air, baseboard, wall heaters and heat pumps — the housing stock here has all of them, often two at once because something was added and nothing was removed.

We work on them as they are, and we are straight about which ones are worth another repair and which are simply being kept alive.

An older boiler and pipework in a house basement
Heat pumps

The route most houses here end up taking

A mild, damp climate suits a heat pump well. What decides the job is the house, not the equipment.

Where ducts already exist

A ducted heat pump can often replace an oil or electric furnace directly — provided the ducts can carry the airflow, which is measured rather than assumed.

Where they do not

Ductless heads handle a house with baseboard or wall heaters, room by room. Quiet and efficient; visible on the wall, which some people mind and some do not.

Cold snaps

A properly specified heat pump handles a Bellingham winter. What matters is how the backup heat is configured — it should be a safety net, not the thing doing the work.

What we do not claim

We give no savings percentage. Fuel prices, insulation and how a house is used decide that, and anyone quoting a figure without seeing your bills is guessing.

Old ductwork in a crawlspace under a timber house
Old houses

Ducts that were never designed

Gravity systems converted to forced air, runs added when a bedroom was built, a crawlspace full of flex that has come apart at the collars. It is the normal condition of a Bellingham basement and it explains most complaints about comfort.

We measure static pressure and airflow, repair what can be repaired, and say clearly when a system needs redesigning rather than patching again.

Ventilation

Damp, and the fans that were meant to stop it

  1. Measure what the fan movesMost of the bathroom fans we test move a fraction of their label figure.
  2. Fix the duct, not the fanA sagging or disconnected duct in the loft is the usual culprit, and a new fan on the same duct changes nothing.
  3. Give the moisture somewhere to goKitchens, laundry and bathrooms first, then the house as a whole if it is tight.
  4. Check the resultRe-measured after the work, so the improvement is shown rather than claimed.
An insulated extract duct running to a roof vent in a loft
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